Insert pins into the new plug using pins 1 (Red), 3 (Brown/Black),5 (Black),6 (Yellow). Remove the pins using a small screwdriver to press down and push back, they may get caught on the back of the plug and will need to be pressed again. Using a small flat blade screwdriver or point, slightly pry the parts of the plug apart and remove the inner plug. The plug needs to be taken apart to reveal the pins in order to fit the new plug. Remove the two screws (arrowed) holding the screen in using a size 10 torx bit.Ĭarefully pull the top of the screen down slightly and pull the screen rearwards. This main plug is the same as the one fitted to the CIC so will be re-used, whereas on the CCC retrofit it has to be changed. Remove the 2 screws (arrowed) that hold the HU in place.Ĭarefully pull HU rearwards and unplug Screen(silver), GPS (Blue), Antenna (black) and main (Big Black) plugs. To give more room for movement remove the ashtray by undoing the 2 holding screws (arrowed) and unplugging the rear plug/socket. Using a small flat blade screwdriver gently lift the 4 catches individually whilst pushing the switch from the front of the trim to the rear. Please note the ashtray is already removed in this photo as I forgot to take a photo first time so put the trim back on to take a photo. Pull the cubby hole trim towards the rear of the car and unplug the supply to the PDC, Heated seats and DTC (2 plugs). Pull out the 2 plugs and remove the heater control facia. Undo the 2 Philips screws (arrowed) and pull the heater controls towards the rear of the car slowly, there are two lugs on the bottom of the trim. Push the silver clips on the rear of the Hazard light/door lock switch to release it from the trim and remove the plug and switch. Work along the strip towards the steering wheel and prise all 5 lugs to release the strip. Place some tape along edges where you are required to pull trim apart in order to protect the leather.Ĭarefully pry the edge of the decorative trim towards the rear of the car. It is advisable but not essential to disconnect the battery to prevent any shorting and fuses blowing when you replace the CID plug in Step 11.
New BMW K+DCAN cable and NCS EXPERT software to code the unit to the car.ġ trim prying tool (I used the flat blade of a small hammer, see step 2) You will lose the cubby hole that is below the radio control panel. If you don’t have this controller then the older style will still work but I recommend using this one as it is much easier and more beneficial.Ĭover Dashboard, centre – 51 45 8 045 816 (This is the Part No if you have the Alu Pentan trim which is the finish in my car, please check what is correct for yours). Idrive controller – 65 82 9 189048 (This came with the kit I bought but I didn’t need it as I already had this model fitted so there is no guide for fitting this here, sorry). Universal Socket Housing uncoded 8 POL – 61 13 6 954 526 (This is needed as the 6.5” screen is connected differently to the 8.8”, more in Step 11).
USB/AUX-IN jack, switchable – 84 10 9 237 654 (This isn’t the correct one I need for the CIC USB but I got it anyway as I will need it for when I do the 6FL COMBOX retrofit and I will put it in the armrest) The correct one for the CIC is a USB only as the CIC USB can only be used to load music and update maps. Luckily I had the MASK system so some parts were compatible which saved money. In this case there is less to change than if going MASK-CCC or CCC-CIC as the connectors on the rear of the Head Unit are different. The list below is what is needed to go from MASK NAV to CIC with part numbers. For BMW diagnostic tool, you can try items at. You can do BMW E60 CICI retrofit coding with the help of the cic retrofit instruction here, and maybe it is relevant to other models but please check first.įirst thing is to source all the bits you need.
This is a guide for how to use K+Dcan cable retrofit a CIC system to BMW 2010 E61 which previously had MASK Nav.